Vol. 10, Issue 02 February 2010
Seomjingang Train Village
Discover Korea, Travel
As I entered the train village, I found an immense sense of awe amongst the people going there.
By Adam Bourque
Recently I had the opportunity to explore the very lively Train Village out in Gokseong. If you are looking for something do on a Saturday to get out of the big city, this is something that should be added to your “to do” list. It’s easy to get a bus from Gwangju to Gokseong terminal, and from there it’s a simple 20-minute walk, or a very quick taxi ride.
As I entered the train village, I found an immense sense of awe amongst the people going there. Everyone was quite excited to be out for the day even though the weather wasn’t the best. Kids were eagerly bugging mothers and fathers for tickets, but I couldn’t quite understand the attraction just yet. From my point of view I really didn’t know what to expect. When I heard about a “train village” I thought of a museum of sorts dedicated to the local trains or the trains of Korea. This is true to a certain extent, but with two large additions. Firstly there’s an actual steam-powered locomotive still in operation which visitors can ride. Second is something called a ‘rail bike’. When I discovered these two attractions I understood everyone’s excitement.
I took my time looking around and taking in the history of the train line here. Apparently the station here in Gokseong was in operation since 1933, but the old stop was converted into this new train village. The new station is far bigger and more modern. The train village has been in running since ?????
I noticed that as well as families, there were plenty of young couples enjoying the Train Village. Watching all the couples holding hands and taking each other’s pictures in front of the train I got the sense that this is an excellent date destination for young Koreans.
I approached the ticket booth, and with my simple Korean finally got a ticket for the train ride. The departure time is helpfully printed on the ticket. I had some time to kill and I was hungry – good thing for cafe cars! Within the village there are two little train carriages that have been converted into little restaurants, offering simple but good Korean menus. I ordered my pork cutlet, green tea and enjoyed eating it in a diner train car. It was a great experience. I then gathered my things and moved along to wait for the train. I got on and was ushered to my seat and sat down. The train’s mighty whistle blew a large announcement to the world saying it was leaving in a couple of minutes. People on the train were also getting more excited.
About halfway through the journey on the train a lady came on the speakers and began explaining the sights. The train moved slowly along the railroad so the people could enjoy the scenery. Out of the window there is the Seomjin river and the mountains on the other side of river. While on the train I took the liberty of asking some people why they were there and who with. I talked with a family from Daejong (Daejeon??) who were having a great time. I then asked some older lady friends from Gwangju why they came and they told me to experience the sights and they were also having an enjoyable time. Their smiles were proof of this. Lastly I talked to a shy couple from Chungnam-sosan; a husband and wife on their own and having a really nice time they said. They too were enjoying the natural beauty that people come to see.
From these people I gathered that most people come here to enjoy the sights and natural scenery of the area while on an older train. I guess being in a city all day long and then coming out to the country and being surrounded my non-concrete buildings and a nice river is quite the change. But I also heard that people really enjoy the past. Older people really enjoy this especially because they enjoy going into the past and taking a nostalgic walk down memory lane of simpler times perhaps.
The train is coming to a stop and I find out that the train will stop for a while. Of course my first reaction is how do I get back to Gokseong. I am worried that I will be stranded at this other station. But I later relax as I discover we will go back on the same train and same route. It seems that this whole section of line has been dedicated to this train village. People come to the end of the route, can enjoy the fresh air and have a little snack, take some pictures and take in the scenery while escaping the stresses and busy cities out here in the country. Then we get on to the train again and go back to the Gokseong station.
I am fascinated by the other attraction however. They call it the ‘rail bike’. When I first saw one I thought of the very old self-propelled little rail cars when two people used a seesaw action to move a little car along the rail. These rail bikes are built for four people; two in the front and two in the back. If there are only two in your party, then you both sit in the front. It’s great for visiting couples who really enjoy this ride. As the bike word is used in the name, it uses the bicycle principle by pedaling to move the cart forward. Kids also really get excited. There are two sections to the rail bike tracks. The first is a track near Gokseong station that is open all year round, though a little small. The larger and much longer track starts about halfway on the train line and ends up where the train stops, then you take the train back. It’s quite a large difference and is only open in the spring and summer. Both are quite popular and if you do come to the train village I get the impression that the larger one is the better way to go if you are here to immerse yourself in the natural surroundings of the country. You pedal your way along the river just like the train but it’s just you and the bike. Very quiet and peaceful. I of course tried the smaller track and being alone, got strange looks but did not mind. It was a nice experience and I think I understand a little why people like them so much. I wouldn’t come every weekend of course but it’s a novel idea.
There is also some movie trivia at this village for you movie goers. The Korean films Taeguki and Ice kaki were both filmed for parts at this village. For Ice kaki they built an entire street section of older Korea, which was left for the train village – you can walk around it for free. I asked someone how accurate it is, and they said it was fairly accurate. If you took a picture next to it, you’d be in pre-1950 Korea. In the film Taeguki, the train scene where the brothers are going off to war was filmed here, and the train that was used for filming also stayed at the village.
All in all, this village is quite interesting in its own way. Leaving I understand why the people really get filled with excitement when they come here.
| How to get there
To get to Gokseong from Gwangju, catch a direct bus from the main U-Square bus terminal: 4,000won every 15 minutes Last return bus from Gokseong to Gwangju 8:30 p.m. (but check this when you arrive in Geokseong, to make sure) From Gokseong terminal to the Train Village, walk20 minutes (turn left twice out of terminal and go along main road, then right at main intersection) or take a taxi, “기차마을”, “Gi-cha ma-eul” Train Prices and Times (subject to change): Adult – 6,000 won Child – 5,500won First train – 9:30 a.m. Last train – 7:30 p.m. Train ride takes a total of 80 minute |
By Adam Bourque
