Vol. 09, Issue 09 September 2009 
Temple Dragons and Monster Masks
Travel
Dragons are said to be shape-shifters… they are believed to control the weather, including fog, dew, clouds, and rain.
By Kelly Shepherd
You can always see dragons at Korean temples. They’re everywhere. They can be colourful and bright, or graceful and elegant, or even grotesque and frightening – but they are always awe-inspiring. For many people, these mythical creatures are synonymous with Buddhist art. For many people, the generic, stylized dragon is a symbol representative of Asian art and culture in general. However, despite their resemblance to the more familiar, traditional Chinese dragons – with horse-like heads, deer antlers, flowing whiskers, and long serpentine bodies – the dragons in Korean temples do not share the same origins.
According to Heo Gyun in Korean Temple Motifs, ancient Indian snake spirits were adopted by early Buddhists as protectors of the Dharma truth. Often depicted as king cobras or many-headed snakes, they were changed into dragons as Buddhism and its imagery moved from India to China, and from China to Korea. To this day, the dragons seen in temples all over Korea are direct descendants of those snake spirits from 6th century India (24).
These same guardian dragons are found outside Dharma Halls and other temple buildings, on the tops of pillars and the sides of staircases, and under eaves. Inside the temple structures, they are always associated with the canopies found over Buddha altars, and can also be seen on the altars themselves, on the inner walls, crossbeams, and ceilings. In addition, they are sometimes carved under the stone bridges that lead to the temple grounds. Depending on the setting, dragons might be painted, carved out of wood, or hewn out of stone. The dragon’s role here, again, is that of guardian. From the vantage point of the bridge, it can keep watch over the stream and prevent evil forces from entering the temple via the water. In Korean temples, the dragon preserves the sanctity of temple buildings and protects the halls where there are Buddha images and teachings.
Heo Gyun points to another role for the dragon, though, aside from that of guardian or protector. He describes the “Wisdom Dragon Ships” that sail to Paradise. These ships carry believers across the Sea of Samsara (illusion; the endless cycle of birth and rebirth) to the other shore, where the Pure Land is said to exist (26). Heo suggests that temple buildings themselves represent the cabins of these symbolic vehicles, and that the dragon heads represent the ships’ prows. Indeed, on many temple buildings the dragon heads do project forward from the top central pillars like a ship’s figurehead, and sometimes the tail of the dragon is even seen projecting from the back of the building like the stern of a ship. When people come to prostrate, pray, or chant in a temple, according to this symbolism, they are embarking on a journey on a Wisdom Dragon Ship (28).
Dragons are said to be shape-shifters, and indeed they do serve a great many ritual and symbolic purposes in Korean temples. Dragons are believed to control the weather, including fog, dew, clouds, and rain. Furthermore, the countless scales of dragons are a metaphor for eternity. The bell-hook is yet another example. At the deep and melodic sound of the temple bell, all sentient beings are invited to awaken. These huge, heavy bells are hung with a hook shaped like a small dragon. It is always facing downwards, with its mouth wide open as if crying out in fear. This is the dragon “Poroe” and in fact he is afraid – of whales! The log bell striker was traditionally carved or painted to resemble a fish or a whale, and examples of these can still be seen in some temples today. As the story goes, Poroe would cry out in terror whenever a whale struck him, and so it was decided that his loud voice would be perfect for the ringing of the temple bell.
As if all of these watchful and versatile dragons weren’t enough, Buddhist temples in Korea are also decorated with “Monster Masks.” These glaring, grimacing faces peer out at visitors from under rooftop eaves, from the tops of pillars, and from temple altars. They have bulging eyes, wide noses, unruly manes of hair, horns or antlers, and fearsome teeth or tusks. Like the dragon, the monster mask can also be spotted outside of temples: have another look at the “Red Devils” face of the Korean national soccer team! Their appearance is occasionally humorous, but more often frightening or even disturbing. They are also seen as both carvings and paintings. The monster masks might bear some resemblance to the faces of the dragons, but as Heo Gyun points out, they are nearly always depicted with foliage (in particular, lotus plants or flowers) in their mouths, which sets them apart (38).
Not as impressive or as well-known as dragons, these demon or monster figures nonetheless have an interesting history and an important purpose. Like the dragons, they also serve as temple guardians; and they also originate in ancient India. Heo Gyun relates the myth of the Indian god Siva, who once allowed his vengeful anger to take on a life of its own. It took the form of the horrible lion-headed demon Kirttimukha (39 – 43). This beast had an insatiable hunger. When it was finished serving Siva, it remained hungry, and proceeded to feast upon its own body! Soon only its head remained, and Siva rewarded its faithful service to him by appointing it as the ferocious guardian of his temple doors. Like the snake spirits, this image was adopted by early Buddhists who brought it with them to Eastern Asia. It is this same personification of Siva’s anger that we see today throughout Korean temple buildings, still serving as a guardian and preventing the entrance of evil. Indeed, there are often several monster masks present in one place, and their eyes are carved or painted to stare in different directions, thereby keeping watch over as wide an area as possible.
Dragons and Monster Masks are only two of the countless potent and fascinating symbols hiding within the intricate histories and architectures of Buddhist temples in Korea. Statues of Buddhas and Boddhisatvas, paintings depicting mythical or historical people, murals that tell the life story of the Buddha – these are just the beginning. There are birds, flowers, fish, tigers, turtles, specific patterns of latticework on doors and windows. The number of levels on a pagoda, the seemingly abstract patterns painted on wooden beams and pillars, even the colors of paint used, all of these are imbued with specific meanings and metaphors. And the temples themselves are everywhere, of course, from the most remote peaks to the busiest cities. These particular photographs were taken recently at the beautiful mountain temple Beomeosa, located in the southern city of Busan, but similar beasts lie in wait at every corner of Korea.
