Vol. 09, Issue 04 April 2009 
Thali Resaturant: Indian Bliss
Food
“Thali” is a South Indian term for a kind of large platter, and this is how the restaurant serves its set menu dishes.
By
It never rains but it pours. There was a time in Gwangju when “international cuisine” meant a restaurant dishing out spaghetti and pizza. Such were the limitations, that on my infrequent trips to Seoul, I was obliged to brave the pits of that city, Itaewon, to wrap myself around a decent mutton korma, or some such. A few years ago, there was a short lived Indian restaurant in Ilgok Dong, but apart from that, the nearest thing to anything Indian in Gwangju was that dreadful Ottogi curry from the local Mountain Mart. Of course, there were the wonderful curries we got at the GIC International Day, but once a year is not often enough for those of us in need of a constant Indian fix.
Following on the heels of the Underground Grocer’s stocking real curry pastes, authentic curries can be bought from the supermarkets; and not one, but two Indian restaurants are open or – uh – “opening soon” in downtown Gwangju. I am being very tentative about the Nepalese and Indian restaurant (about 200m past Burger King, heading towards the river): as the weeks pass, the “Opening Soon” sign above the locked door gets increasingly tatty. Hopefully, by publication date, this will be old news.
Which brings us to the recently opened Thali Restaurant. Thankfully, it does not disappoint. Indeed, it answers a prayer. It is. It is about 200m from Migliore, heading back toward Gumnamno, walking away from the river. It is an upstairs restaurant, on the corner, and, in a variation from the junk food theme, diametrically opposite McDonalds.
“Thali” is a South Indian term for a kind of large platter, and this is how the restaurant serves its set menu dishes. A platter indeed, containing the curries of your choice (mutton, chicken, vegetable, beef, and also a combination set), samosas, naan (and other roti) rice, a side salad, and a sweet. Menu dishes range from about 8000 won to 16000 won. Drinks are extra, and, in my opinion, a trifle expensive. On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, from 12 noon, they offer a buffet, at 10,000 won per person. The buffet choices are three or four curries, with a variety of condiments. It includes a naan bread. From time to time, they also offer menu specials. The last time I was there, the special was an especially tasty tandoori chicken.
They use the terms “curry” and “masala” but do not differentiate into types of curry dishes like, say, vindaloo or korma. In a city with no tradition of Indian cuisine, this is understandable. The customer can, though, request the degree of spiciness desired. On the three occasions that I have eaten here, I have found the curry tasty and fresh and not too spicy.
There is a wide range of drinks – albeit all non – alcoholic. They have a generous lassi which always goes well with curry, and they also offer a traditional Indian tea. This sounds ghastly – strong, sweet, creamy and boiled – but it is wonderful. On hot days in India, nothing is more thirst quenching, energizing or refreshing. It should thus go down a treat in Gwangju’s hot and sweaty summers.
The atmosphere is very relaxed. The staff is friendly, welcoming, competent, and readily put the customer at ease. They are also quite eclectic: there is one young Korean woman, and the rest are from Pakistan and India. On the sub-continent, they seem to pick up languages in their sleep. As such, the staff is fluent in both Korean and English. The restaurant is tastefully appointed, can cater to solo diners, and, with a little furniture redistribution, can handle groups of up to 10 or 12.
The restaurant has an incentive card. Get ten stamps, and your eleventh meal is free. In the quest of feeding my mutton curry addiction, I suspect I will be engorging one of their freebies regularly and often. As I said, this restaurant answers a prayer.
